Introduction
I can still recall that it was the morning when I actually mastered layering. I was at 11,000 feet in Colorado Rockies, and I was chattering my teeth even though I had on what I considered to be good winter clothes, but I learned that I had earned all the stereotypical errors. Cotton base layer? Check. One huge puffy jacket and no underwear? Check. An hour after I was dripping with sweat as I climbed up, and then froze in a second as I ceased to move.
That experience was so miserable that it led me into the rabbit cave of learning how to dress properly in cold weather conditions. Twenty years later, having gone camping in the woods many times over winter, working days long through Chicago winters, spent more time testing my equipment than I would like to acknowledge, I have come to understand what really works.
Winter layering is not complex, and the only thing that you need to know is several certain principles. Get it right and you will remain a comfortable person whether you are clearing the drive way or spending time in the slopes. Make a wrong move, and you will also be the one who sits and shivers on the sidelines of your child soccer game, and you will be wondering why your costly jacket is not keeping you warm.
Learning the Three-Layer System.
The secret of successful winter dressing is reduced to a simple principle, that many thin layers are better than one deep layer. This is not the marketing rubbish of outdoor companies to sell you even more. The laws of basic thermodynamics.
The layers are used to fulfill the following purposes:
The foundation is placed on the skin and it controls moisture. Its main task is to evaporate the sweat off your body before it can cause your coldness.
An insulating layer is the mid layer. It keeps warm air near to your body thus forming that warm barrier against the chilly.
The external surface shields you against the wind, precipitation and snow. Just imagine it is your weather-gauge.
These roles allow you to combine and match pieces depending on factors such as conditions, level of activity and preference. The art of this system is that it is flexible. Exercising when taking a brisk walk? Take off your outer layer, or your mid layer all the way off. The evening and the lowering of the temperature? Take that fleece that you put in your bag.
Base Layers: The Place of the Majority of the People on the Wrong Track.
Here is one of the lessons that only took me years to come to: your foundation can be seen as more important than your outer jacket that you spend a lot of money on. I understand that this is paradoxical, but listen to me.
The foundation is the initial defense line of the discomfort. You sweat, when you work hard, even going just to walk fast in order to take a train. When such moisture is trapped on your skin, then you are in trouble. Wet skin will lose heat about 25 times as fast in comparison to dry skin.
Materials That really Work.
In the majority of cases, I use merino wool. Admittedly, it is more expensive than synthetic ones, but merino presents a mix of benefits that is difficult to rival. It absorbs well, insulates even when wet, inherently antiperspiratory, has a natural affinity to smell (huge bonus when you are going away), and is non-slippery against the skin, unlike the roughness of the wool sweaters your grandmother had been knitting.
I have used the same merino base layer in a backpacking trip lasting seven days and it did not become a biohazard. Do the same with polyester and your tentmates will set up an intervention.
The synthetic fabrics such as polyester and polypropylene are effective, particularly in activities involving a lot of output where you are sweating a lot. They dry quicker than merino and also are much cheaper. The trade-off is odor. Artificial bases are prone to becoming funky. Other brands apply antimicrobial finishes on their fabrics, which is helpful, but can hardly keep up with the inherent ability of merino to keep the smell off.
Silk is the dark horse that does not receive sufficient attention. It is extremely lightweight, and it is comfortable to the skin, and it is suited to the average activity levels. I have silk base layers on which I travel and use daily when I do not feel like getting a real sweat.
Cotton is in the summer dresser. I can't stress this enough. Maybe cotton kills does not sound so melodramatic, but in wet and cold climate it is actually a life-threatening thing. Cotton takes in moisture, and does not give it up easily, and leaves you chilled to the bone.
The Mid Layer: Your Insulation Engine.
It is in the mid layer that you add in warmth. This is the part of your system which is adjustable; that is, the layer which you take off or put on when circumstances vary during the day.
Fleece: The Workhorse of the World.
There is a reason why Fleece is popular. It is cheap, breathable, and quickly dries and offers substantial warmth in its weight. I have fleece jackets which are fifteen years old and still going.
Brand names do not matter; it is more the thickness. Thin fleece (100-weight) is a fine insulating cover suitable to active sports. Fleece (200-weight) is warm and versatile. Heavy fleece (300-weight) is in the puffy jacket range in terms of warmth but is more breathable.
Down Insulation
There is no better match, down to weight-to-warmth ratio. The down jacket packs up small stuff sack and gives amazing insulation. Down is the leader in terms of the depth of the packs when it comes to backpacking, travel or any other scenario where size is a concern.
But there is a major flaw of down, it becomes most of its insulating qualities damp. Those puffy tangles which keep the warm air in them, become dismal, wet twigs. Down is not the best choice of mid layer in case it rains, or is wet snow or heavy perspiration.
Synthetic Insulation
The synthetic insulation of today has bridged the gap with down to a considerable degree. It is not as warm when wet as the warmth-to-weight ratio of down, and is also not as expensive. Synthetic mid layers usually perform better than down in winter sports like active winter sports where the rationale is that one is bound to be sweating.
I keep both in my rotation. Down for cold, dry conditions. Artificial in all that is of actual effort or of rain.
Wool Sweaters and Hybrid.
Mid layers should also include traditional wool sweaters. An excellent insulator, good breathers and the sweater looks more at home on the trail than it can be off-trail, a good merino or lambswool sweater is a great asset. A good wool sweater with a shell over it cannot be beaten in the everyday life: commuting, going to a store, a simple outdoor game.
Down jackets or synthetic jackets with stretchy breathables in the sides and arms have gained more popularity by being made into hybrids that have the insulation in the core and the breathables in the sides and arms. They are efficient as active insulation which means that they are not as limiting to movement as the customary puffy jackets.
Outer Coats: Your Skin Weatherproof.
The outer coating is in contact with the elements and hence it must bear whatever winter throws to it. This is where most people over-engineer their wardrobe. All the outer layers do not have to be technical hardshells that can withstand an expedition to the Himalayas.
Softshells for Active Use
The softshell jackets are more breathable and mobile than fully waterproof. They are capable of blocking wind, shedding light precipitation and letting moisture vapor escape. Active activities, such as skiing, winter hiking, snowshoeing, and so on, may require softshells, which may be more effective than waterproof ones.
The breathing ease is actual. Even the best waterproof membranes have a limit with regards to the amount of sweat they can withstand. When the activities are high-output, this may lead to dampness being accumulated in your jacket. This problem is prevented by Softshells which give up some weather resistance in exchange of better air exchange.
Serious All-Weather Hardshells.
Hardshell jackets come into play when it is probable to be raining, wet snowing, or experiencing downpours that persist for long. Seek waterproof breathables of good manufacturers. Gore-Tex is the standard, but branded alternatives by the giant are also functional.
Some of the hardshell features to consider spending money on include: pit zips (underarm vents) as quick ventilation, a hood that fits over a helmet in case you ski or climb, and pockets placed above your hipbelt (pack) in case you have one.
Hardshells are expensive compared to softshells, but a good one has a long life when well taken care of and used. My main ski shell is going to its tenth year with no indication of retiring.
Insulated Jackets as Outers
Insulated outer jackets would be reasonable to everyday winter life, commuting, walking about, snow shoveling. They also offer protection and warmth in one layer making it easier to balance the equation of layering.
The exchange price is less flexibility. A parka that insulates and keeps you warm when you are waiting to take the bus could make you overheat on a brisk walk. This is okay when you are working in the same manner but not when you are required to shift during the day.
Parkas and Extreme Cold Gear
Under 0 F -18 C, the rules are slightly different. When the temperatures reach this level, moisture management is not such a big issue since you will not sweat as much but the insulation needs grow exponentially.
Long-sleeved parkas that reach all the way to your thighs and seat are worth something. The great vessels of the legs and posterior are near to the surface. They are insulated and that keeps the core warm compared to shorter jackets.
The most frequent layering errors (And How to prevent them).
Overdressing
The most frequent mistake that I notice is an excessive amount of clothes. Individuals wrap up in static comforts and begin to move around producing heat, sweating under the clothing, and coming out colder than had been the case had they dressed in less.
The rule of thumb: When you get out first in the morning, and you feel comfortable then you are overdressed. At the beginning of activity, you are supposed to feel slightly cool. In ten minutes you are supposed to be comfortable.
Final Thoughts
Layering in winter also took me years to get the winter cold toes, sweaty backs, and refinements. The promising fact is that you can watch other people and grasp their mistakes.
The system that you want to begin with is the three-layer system. First invest in a good base layer- this is the single difference to most people. One should create your mid layer collection over time, adding in pieces that complement each other. Wear outerwear that is suited to your real life pursuits as opposed to fantastical endeavours.
Above all, experiment. All of them operate at varying degrees. There are those who sleep hot and hardly require insulation. Some of us, such as myself, get cold and require extra layers which would overheat other individuals. Be mindful of the reactions of your body and modify them.
Winter does not necessarily imply days of coldness. Nevertheless, the creative use of layers will allow remaining comfortable and even taking advantage of outdoor opportunities of the season. The lesson that I gained that morning on the mountain was a hard one, but it has given rise to numerous comfortable winter adventures since then.
Frequently Asked Questions
The question is how many layers is appropriate to use in winter?
The traditional three-layer system (base, mid, outer) is effective in the majority of cases. Additional mid layers may be necessary because of extreme cold or low activity. The correct amount will be influenced by the temperatures, the wind and the amount of heat that you are producing in a movement.
Which is superior, to wear several thin or one heavy?
Multi-thin layers are better than single thick layers due to the fact that they contain air in-between layers, which can help keep your body dry, moisture can move and you also have an option of changing your layers as the day goes by.
Which is the most comfortable material used as a winter base layer?
Merino wool is the most suitable, as it is the warmest, moisture-controlling and odor-resistant. Artificial materials are rapidly drying and less expensive. Avoid cotton that is wet and therefore loses its insulating capacity.
Why then am I cold with all this stuff on me?
The most frequent ones are trapping moisture by cotton clothing, tight layers that hinder the circulation, lack of coverage of the extremities (hands, feet, head), and improper insulation depending on your activity level.
Should I tuck in my base layer?
Yes, you can keep your base layer inside your pants and cold air will not get inside your pants where it will not keep you warmer and the moisture-wicking material in direct contact with your skin where it is more effective.
What should I do to ensure that I do not overheat when I am even in cold weather?
Wear a little cold, employ ventilation features (pit zips, front zip) as needed, wear breathable mid layers when you work out and do not be afraid to shed as you go.
Is it possible to wear a hoodie as the mid layer?
A hoodie is a casual mid layer that is worn daily. In the case of an active activity, mid layers that are designed are more effective in keeping the body dry and cool.
What temperature does it require to put on a mid layer?
This will be determined by the level of activity and individual cold tolerance. Beginning with mid layers under 40 o C (4 o C) when doing moderate activity, more at rest and a little less during exercise.
What is the difference between down and synthetic insolation?
Down is warmer per pound but it loses its insulating capability when it gets wet. Synthetic insulation is bulkier and heavier and preserves warmth in case of dampness and is cheaper.
What is the frequency with which I should wash my winter?
Layers of wash base after usage. The longer the mid layers can take between washes -wash when obviously dirty or odoriferous. External coats just require a regular clean when they get greasy or the resistance to water reduces.
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