Introduction
Since I started my experience in the world of personal styling and fashion retail more than fifteen years ago, I had the honor of helping hundreds of people find out what actually works with their shapes. And there is one thing I have learned, and that is that to dress well is not about conforming to some rigid rules or trying to squeeze yourself in the concept of another person of what is flattering, you are ending up doing it by knowing something about your proportions and using it as a starting point.
To be absolutely clear at the very beginning, dressing according to your body type is not aimed at fixation of something or hiding the parts of yourself you are born to feel bad about. It is not a problem to solve your body. Rather, consider this a process of learning your own visual language- knowing how clothes will fall on your body, where you feel comfortable with your own weight and what shapes you feel comfortable with when you see yourself in the mirror.
Why Body Type Matters (Why It Doesn't, Too).
I would like to discuss a question I observe all the time in the sphere of fashion, which is the simplification of body types into convenient categories. You must have encountered them apple, pear, hourglass, rectangle, inverted triangle. These terms are useful in a generic sense, however, not gospel.
This is the truth: the majority of people cannot be exactly categorized in one of the categories. You may be of the shape of an hourglass but you may have bigger shoulders than normal. The amount of weight you carry may change according to the time of the year, amount of stress you are having or just the stage of life you are going through. It is normal to evolve bodies.
It is even more important than remembering what shape you happen to be to learn to see proportion and harmony on your own peculiar frame. The values I will provide are universal principles that cut across the board whether you are small, small, big, old or young.
That being said, body type classification as a rough guide can in no way but expedite your shopping experience and get you to avoid spending time bringing home clothes that looked fantastic on the display rack but just do not fit you. I have experienced it myself- being in a dressing room and not understanding the reason as to why a perfectly nice blazer makes me appear like a linebacker when I had seen it so pretty on the display.
The Five Widely-Spread Body Types.
Let us consider the most popular body shapes. These are just starting points and not destinations.
The Pear (or Triangle) Shape
When you are significantly larger in the hips than the shoulders and breast, and you are likely to gain weight on the lower parts, thighs, hips, and the backs, you probably belong to this group. In fact, this is one of the most widespread types of bodies, although it is not obvious by the mainstream fashion advertisements.
What typically works well:
- Shoulder tops that give a three dimensional effect.
- Necks on boats, off-shoulders and statement sleeves.
- A-line dresses and skirts that are not clinging.
- Dark and solid color on the lower half.
- Hip-balancing or flared pants that are boot-cut.
- Both information and decoration above the waist.
The frustration may be caused by:
Slim jeans which have not been carefully styled at the top (they are inclined to highlighting hips-to-shoulders imbalance).
Added bulk in the form of pleated or gathers at the waist.
Jackets, which are hips length and end at the widest side.
A few years ago, I had a client, whom we are going to refer to as Maria, who was essentially hopeless in her search of a pair of jeans that fit. She would purchase them to wear on her hips and have a waistband that she could squeeze both fists into. After having discovered brands which target the curvier proportions specifically (Madewell had a curvy line, which became her regular), shopping ceased being something to fear.
The Apple (or Round) Shape
This type of body usually implies that you are carrying the weight around your waist mostly, and less defined waistline and generally slim legs and arms. This shape is formed by a lot of people over their lives especially after some stages in life.
What typically works well:
- V-necks which stretch the torso.
- Empire waistlines which form definition above natural waist.
- Fabricated jackets and blazers forming vertical lines.
- Boot-cut or straight leg trousers.
- Wrap dresses and tops
- Single color dresses giving rise to a continuous line.
- Good underwear, in case you feel comfortable with it
What can be frustrating on a regular basis:
- Stingy material at the waist.
- Large belts that were worn at the waist.
- Shapeless, baggy tops (they do not conceal anything, on the contrary, they make you look bigger)
Trouser trousers that pierce the stomach.
The trick here is to make it look like you have been elongated and at the same time display your assets, which in most cases are beautiful arms, decoletage and legs. I have witnessed so many such women who have this type of body struggling to conceal themselves in oversized clothes and it just backfires. Formal, premeditated silhouettes are much more effective than tent dressing.
The Hourglass Shape
You are congratulated when you will fall here--historically fashion was created to suit you. Your shoulders and hips are almost equal with a quite well-defined waist. Nevertheless, that does not imply that everything can fall into place.
What typically works well:
- Wrap dresses, tops (basically your uniform)
- Custom-made dresses to the curves of your body.
- Belted dresses that make your waistline.
- Pencil skirts and custom trousers.
- Scoop and V-necklines
- Stretchy clothes that keep up with you.
The cause of frequent frustration:
- Square-shaped or formless shapes that hype up your waist.
- Excessive looseness of garments (it gives the garment a visual weight and conceals your figures)
- Firm materials, which are not draping.
ShirtWear dresses that do not have any waistline.
The largest error that I find hourglass figures commit is to act according to the trends created to fit on straight frames. That big jacket he made so stylish on your square friend? It can simply be dishevelled on you unless you have it belted or roll the sleeves.
The Athletic shape (or the Rectangle)
Your shoulders, hips, and waist all measure almost the same width making you have a straight up-and-down profile. This is so much typical and it usually accompanies an inherently sporting figure.
What typically works well:
- Peplos tops and jackets that define the waist.
- Layering to add dimension
- Low-rise or mid-rise bottoms
- Wearing belts at hips and not waist.
- Ruffles, pleats, and texture
- Wrap designs which form curves.
- Fit-and-flare dresses
That which so often causes frustration:
- Severely customized, straight lines may appear too boxy.
- Bare shift dresses (they can be interpreted as shapeless)
The beauty with rectangle bodies is that you can literally tear off the most diverse range of styles since you do not need to be so concerned about the balancing of proportions. The architectural avant-garde work that appears ridiculous when set on more curvy frames? On more straight figures they usually appear gorgeous.
The Inverted Triangle Shape
It is distinguished by shoulders and bust which are very broad compared with your hips, and a narrower line of hips. This shape is common in swimmers and athletes, and by no means is restricted to the sporty type.
What typically works well:
- Scoop and V-necks which slim the shoulder.
- Flared pants and wide-leg pants giving volume to lower half.
- A-line skirts
- Minimal shoulder detailing
- Darker colours on the top, light on the bottom.
- Bottoms of statement (prints, bright colors, interesting textures)
Raglan sleeves
That which so often causes frustration:
- Shoulder pads (obviously)
- Boat necks and off-shoulder fashions.
- Shoulder-emphasizing halter tops.
- Slim jeans that do not have any aesthetic balance at the top.
My personal body is inverted triangle and it would take me years to stop purchasing clothes that fit the body I desired. When I finally started wearing wide-leg trousers and started noticing where my necks were in fact.
Ethics that Everybody Should Practice.
In addition to the peculiar body types, there are several styling rules, which are applicable universally.
The Magic of Proper Fit
Fit is all I cannot emphasize this. A dress that fits well into your body and has a price tag of $30 will seem more costly and refined than a dress that costs 300 dollars and yet it does not fit your body.
This does not imply tightness but the suit is based on your real numbers. Seams at the shoulder should be touching at the shoulder. Armholes shouldn't pull. No pucker pants at the crotch, no baggy pants at the knee.
This has been a life-changing experience to both me and my numerous clients who have found a good tailor. Even basic modifications, like hemming pants, shortening a waist, changing the length of sleeves, etc., can make a mediocre item appear as something that was tailor-made.
Learning to make clothes come to your figure.
This is a thing which takes time to be an eye, but it is important to an extreme. Fabrics that are stiff enhance visual bulk. Drapey Furnishings are curvy. Bunchy clothes reveal it all.
I got to learn this lesson the hard way when I was wearing a beautiful silk charmeuse blouse that fitted beautifully on the model and showed all the ripples of my stomach in the real life. At this point I never only thinking of how an item looks hanging, I also think of how a particular material will act on my body.
The Rule of Thirds (Not Halves)
It is an ancient design concept that perfectly makes a transition to fashion. Separating your dress in thirds instead of halves divides it in a more interesting and more flattering way.
Consider it: when you have a top that you are fitting in high-waisted pants, it forms a one-third/two-thirds split. The same is done in the reverse with a cropped jacket on top of a longer dress. Precisely dividing your body down the middle at the waist can in fact cause you to appear to be shorter or boxer.
How to Build a Wardrobe that actually works.
In the end, this should help you shop easily by knowing your body type rather than making it hard. When you have an idea of what silhouettes are sure to suit you, you can shop quicker and more confidently.
You should start with auditing what you have. What are the works that you go back to again and again? What ones have you never put on even after trying them several times? There is some information in those choices. Probably the clothes you are fond of have something in common with each other--see what it is.
And have permission of yourself to experiment. Bodies are multifaceted and fashion regulations are artificial and personal fashion is ever-changing. Following these guidelines is not to be a jail.
Frequently Asked Questions
But what about the fact that I do not fit any category of body types?
Most people don't. These categories are to be used in loose outlines and not boxes. Pay attention to what is your particular proportions, in which places you are broadest, where you tend to attract attention, how your body has grown with time.
Is it possible that my type of body will be changed?
Absolutely. Depending on weight changes, pregnancy, aging, hormonal changes, lifestyle changes, etc., your location of the weight and proportion can vary. That's normal and expected.
Would it be better to have plus-size people obey other rules regarding body types?
The main rules of harmony and proportion are applicable in all scales. But the additional issues of finding well-built clothes can also be associated with plus-size people, and some of the recommendations can be changed depending on the location of the excess weight.
Where do I determine the type of my body?
Stand in front of a full length mirror with dressed or undergarment. Visual comparison of the width of shoulders, waist and hips. Mark the position of weight that is natural to you. You can consider measurements in case you want to be more accurate.
Do men have different body type rules?
These principles of proportion and balance are applicable to all people but there are also some particular recommendations. Inverted triangle, rectangle and oval classifications are a common among men.
Which is the best tip in dressing well?
Honestly? Proper fit. Every time. No body type expertise will ever cover up clothes that do not fit into your frame well.
Is it necessary to avoid some trends depending on my body type?
Not necessarily evade, but change. Majority of the trends can be altered to be used on other bodies. It is the trick of sorting out trends using your personal body experience instead of duplicating.
Which is the significance of underwear selection to the appearance of the clothes?
Extremely important. Misplaced bras can make tops misfit, panty lines can make trousers look like and the improperly positioned shapewear can actually be problematic. Basic clothes are worth spending money on.
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